Have people who are new to LED subtitles have had this kind of crazy experience? I clearly designed the promotional phrase "50% off for the whole audience" on the computer, but it was thrown on the screen but it was blurred into a mosaic. How can novices quickly get started with LED subtitle screen settings? Today we will break this up.

​​The pixel settings are not the same place you thought​​
Many people open the control software to find the "resolution" option as soon as they come up - this path is wrong. The core parameters that really affect clarity are hidden in two places:

1. ​​Receive card parameter configuration​ ​(Equivalent to the brain of the screen)
2. ​​Physical arrangement of modules​ ​(Actual spacing of each luminous point)

Last week, a milk tea shop owner complained to me that the second-hand subtitle screen he bought for 8,000 yuan was displayed without full text for three days of debugging. Later it was discovered that the previous company changed the scanning method of the receiving card from 1/4 to 1/8, resulting in incorrect pixel allocation. This is like using an abacus to calculate calculus. Can there be no problems?

​​Three steps to locate your pixel life gate​​
Don’t be scared by professional terms, there are three things to do when you practice:
① Take out the tape measure to measure​ ​Center distance of lamp beads​ ​(For example, the P10 screen has a 10mm spacing)
② Enter in the control system​ ​Width height pixel value​ ​(2 meters wide P10 screen = 2000mm÷10mm = 200 columns)
③ The key point is here! examine​ ​Scan Mode​ ​Whether it matches the module type (common 1/4 sweep, 1/8 sweep, if you choose the wrong one, it will directly eliminate half of the brightness)

Here is an uncommon sense point:​ ​Physical pixels ≠display pixels​ ​. Some screens support virtual pixel technology, which can optimize the actual physical resolution of 384x192 to the 768x384 effect. But don’t adjust this parameter by yourself. Last year, a shopping mall opened a large screen and displayed celebrity photos as horror movie effects because of this operation.

​​Self-question time​​
Q: Why do I still blur it by following the tutorial?
A: Eighty percent​ ​Grayscale​ ​Not adjusted correctly. It is recommended to have 14-16 bits of grayscale for indoor screens, and at least 12 bits of outdoor screens. There is a simple way to judge: If black ripple appears when shooting a screen with your mobile phone, check if the refresh rate is lower than 1920Hz

Q: What is the difference between pixel settings in different scenarios?

• The subtitle screen at the door of the store: the focus is to ensure that you can see clearly 10 meters away, and the P6-P10 specifications are sufficient
• Stage background screen: must support refresh rate above 3840Hz, otherwise the camera will be full of water ripples
• Warehouse inventory screen: Instead, you need to reduce the pixel density to save power. It is more cost-effective to choose P16 or above.

Q: What should I do if I encounter snowflake spots/color blocks falling off?
Don't rush to scold the manufacturer first, check it in this order:

1. Check whether the power supply voltage is stable (there will be a problem if the fluctuation exceeds ±5%)
2. Re-plug the cable connector (90% of the faults occur here)
3. Enter the system to see the temperature alarm status (good screens are all overheating protection)

The editor has seen a more amazing case with his own eyes: the LED signs in a locker room in a gym are eroded by water mist all year round, causing the internal circuit board of the module to oxidize. Later, the manufacturer changed the IP65 protection level box and taught them to use a brush to clean the dust every month, and there was no problem in three years. So, pixel setting is just a basic skill, and choosing the right hardware is the real skill.

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