Ouch hey! Do friends who have just entered the industry get overwhelmed by staring at the LED screen parameter table? Alphanumeric numbers such as P3, P4, SMD, and COB are flying all over the sky, which is even more confused than reading alien texts? Don’t panic, let’s talk about this clearly in human terms!

1. The doors and channels in the model are all in these three places

​​1. The beginning of the letters hides mysteries​​
Don't skip the letters that start with the model! For example:

• ​​P Series​​ (such as P2.5): This P represents pixel spacing, and the smaller the number, the more delicate the picture. Remember the formula:​Optimal viewing distance = pixel pitch (meters) × 1000​​. The P3 screen stands 3 meters away and is the most comfortable to watch.
• ​​S series​(such as S4): Mostly the standard box size, S4 usually refers to the 500x500mm specification, suitable for quick assembly.
• ​​Letter mix​ (For example, PH2.8): It may represent a special function, and PH may be a waterproof model. If you encounter this, you will directly ask the manufacturer for a protection level certificate.

​​2. Don’t just look at the size of the middle number​
Many people think that the smaller the model number, the higher the level, which is not absolute! Last year, I saw a P1.8 screen quotation that is more expensive than P1.2. Why? People use a dual-power redundant design, and can last for half an hour after power outage. This hidden value parameter list will not be written.

​3. The suffix letter is Easter egg​

• ​​Q End​: It may be a quick disassembly model, like the aluminum-magnesium-zinc alloy box made by a Shenzhen company, two people can disassemble and assemble 100 square meters in 20 minutes.
• ​​Pro/Max​​: Don’t think you’re playing gimmicks like your mobile phone. If you really upgrade the model of the cooling module, you can have a lifespan of 3 years.

2. Five indicators that must be fought hard in the parameter table

​​1. Refresh rate ≥1920Hz​​
Below this number? The videos shot at the concert were all water ripples! There is a simple test method: turn on the slow motion mode of the phone to shoot the screen, and you can see a direct pass that is obviously flickering.

​2. The brightness will change by itself​
Good screens come with smart dimming:

• Indoor 800-1200cd/m² (too bright to hurt your eyes)
• Outdoor 4000-7500cd/m² (also clear under the sun)
  Last year, there was a curved screen in Singapore shopping malls, which was automatically adjusted to 7000cd/m² at noon and dropped to 300 at 10 o'clock in the evening, saving 40% of the electricity bill!

​3. The protection level is really good​
IP65 is not printed casually! A serious manufacturer dares to show you the water shower test video: the high-pressure water gun is driven for half an hour, and the screen is still broadcast happily. There is a pit to pay attention to - many screens are waterproof on the front, but the back is naked. Before buying, you must ask for the overall protection level.

​​4. Grayscale level 16bit starts​
This number determines that the color transition is unnatural. There is a simple comparison method: let the manufacturer broadcast gradient sunset videos, and the color faults are obviously eliminated directly.

​​5. Viewing angle ≥160 degrees​
Don't be fooled by the parameters! Sit on the side of the site:

• Is the horizontal perspective sufficient (will not change color when walking left and right)
• Is the vertical viewing angle possible (look at the first floor screen on the second floor without deformation)

3. Three pits that novices are most likely to step on

​1. Blindly pursue small spacing​
P1.2 looks high-end, but if you install it in a high-altitude advertising space, no one will come close to you! A customer insisted on getting P1.5, but he spent 200,000 more. The effect was no different from P3, and he regretted it.

​2. Ignore the installation environment​

• Salt spray-proof model should be used at the beach (ordinary screens will grow rust spots in three months)
• Where the temperature difference is large, you must choose a wide temperature screen (can be carried at minus 20℃ to 50℃)
  Lessons from a ski resort in the north: ordinary screens are directly blacked out in winter, and later they changed to special models.

​3. Do not look at the after-sales service terms​​
Focus on these three points:

• Response time (2 hours or 2 days?)
• Spare parts inventory (or is it ready to be adjusted or produced?)
• Remote diagnosis (Can you guide screen repair video?)

Personal opinion time

After working in LED projects for more than ten years, I found a strange phenomenon: many people compare parameters like buying groceries when choosing models, but forget that the screen is used for use! Just like the fence screen installed by a Japanese company on the stadium, the parameters are not the best, but they have equipped them with an intelligent operation and maintenance system, which can predict which module is about to break and replace it in advance, saving 600,000 yuan in maintenance fees in three years.

Finally, let’s be honest - choosing a model is not an exam, there is no standard answer. The key is to think clearly:

1. How far does the audience stand to see?
2. How long does it take to open every day?
3. What is the budget?

After understanding these, then check the parameter table to ensure that you avoid detours. Remember, good screens are used, not viewable. Finding a manufacturer that can accompany you to understand after-sales service is better than any parameters!

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